Two people stand in an old kitchen
Paul and Nancy Fong in the kitchen at the Chicago Cafe (Jose Alfonso Perez/UC Davis)

Chicago Cafe: California’s Oldest Chinese Restaurant

Historical Research Project Reveals a Legacy of Resilience Despite Decades of Asian Exclusion

"Astep into Woodland, California’s, Chicago Cafe is an immediate leap into the past.

Customers sit on black swivel stools at a classic diner counter enjoying $12 combination plates heaped with chow mein, pork fried rice, fried shrimp and egg foo young (hot tea and fortune cookie included — cash only).

Regulars know to enter the shotgun-layout restaurant through the kitchen in back, where boisterous cafe owner Paul Fong, 75, greets customers before turning back to cook alongside his wife, Nancy, 67.

Their lone employee, server Dianna Olstad, 57, delivers iced water to tables in throwback red plastic tumblers, sprinkles “honeys” and “sweeties” like salt and pepper, and good-naturedly chides customers who go too long between visits to the cafe."

 

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